SACHI AMMA

At 27 years old Sachi Amma is finding himself as an accomplished athlete, climbing world class routes whilst finding his individuality and passion for life that comes from within.

 

On Success

The image of success is to use all energy and fight a lot. But it doesn't happen (work) so much. Just be yourself. Follow your flow. 

On Living

Follow your flow.

You have to realise what you want to do. 

On The Olympics (In 2020 climbing enters the Olympics and Tokyo)

If you want to win the games it requires you to change your style of climbing. But if you win it can change your life. Or so they say. 

Every day I wake up and think about the games and the gold medal. And what I should do. Do I want to change my style of climbing?

Speed climbing (which is the 3rd mandatory style in the games) is a strange idea because when you climb it is to challenge yourself to the difficulty of the route and whether you can do it. With speed climbing you know you can climb the route. The challenge is then kind of removed.

On Travel

When you travel you can break your own rules and then chose what works and what doesn't. Through travelling my character has really changed.

My father told me to go to the world. He gave permission. It was tough. Age 16 I was in Austria only speaking Japanese. Climbing was a common language and now those who i met then are great friends and we compete in the World Series together. 10 years on. 

Shared experiences become our common language. 

 On Home

Feeling at home means staying calm and relaxed within myself. 

I try to feel home everywhere. I am tired from the travel but if I feel home everywhere then I can have peace. You never feel so much stress. I am trying for this feeling.

It's good to come back home! 

On Climbing

My first memories of climbing:

- I couldn't get N. 13

- I couldn't stand on a certain hold shaped like a human. 

- I asked my father when the next day we go climbing is. 

It felt challenging and it felt good.  Climbing is not knowing if you can do it or not. I am coming to the point where I am finding my style. 

When I won the World Cup 2 yrs ago. I was tired and with low energy. Pushing too much.  I was getting the result but I didn't want to do it.  I was starting to find myself and what I wanted to do I started to explore outdoor climbing more. 

With outdoor climbing you cannot see the result like a competition.

On Food

I eat what I want.

Every morning I eat porridge with nuts, grains and seeds, dried fruit. I don't have milk so I use water. Adam Ondra introduced me to porridge. It tasted good and is easy on the stomach. It is the perfect breakfast. 

I like seafood more than meat. Though when I'm in Germany I eat meat!

When I travel I eat locally with local dishes. It is more about who is cooking than where. I always travel with soy sauce and if in one place for a while then I bring miso.

When climbing I take something light, so bananas and also Clif bar (who support me with product). I do actually like them. I eat a bite then climb rather than a whole bar in one go.  And when in Japan I eat Daifuku (rice balls with adzuki bean paste)

Usually I eat a lot in the night and a light lunch. I Love soba and traditional Japanese stew NIMONO. And NABE style soup dishes. 

The Way

You have an image of happiness and you try to be like that. Usually it makes it harder. Climbing is now coming to the level of the Olympics and I see many Japanese gold medalists. They appear happy and I want to be like them. But I don't know if they are happy. I am afraid of being alone by doing what I want to do.

Often we want to be some other person but it is not the way. I realise that the way comes from the inside. 

Following your dreams

It takes courage to do what you want to do.